Resonator eliminator - minor problem

Well, got the Res.Elim. and a nice Blue AIRAID filter installed today.

I noticed on my Res elim. that there were 3 raised "bumps" in the top middle...probably from the mold it was made from.

I decided to sand them off, then went to buy some finer grid sandpaper. I thought doing up to a higher grid would make it smooth again.

Well, it's smooth...but looks scuffed compared to much of the rest of it. So, I sanded the whole thing to match. Now the whole thing looks scuffed! Ugh.

Anyway, does anyone know of a way to make it smooth again...return that shine? I'm almost thinking I need some sort of chemical or something that will almost remelt the surface layer. I tried Armour All wipes and that didn't do it. Ah, minor engine dress up problem!

How high did you go on sandpaper. Work in stages up to 1200 grit and it should get pretty glassy. Woulda just left the bump though

You might try a headlight restoration kit. They are made for polishing plastic headlights back to a nice glass like finish.

I'm thinking that might be for a harder plastic... Might be worth a shot.

What about using a wrap of sorts? I have said resonator and been thinking about using something like this. http://www.topvinylfilms.com/catalog/Vehicle_Wrap_Vinyl-77-1.html?gclid=CJqM4fGDkKoCFYgW2godrwINyQ

amentowasso wrote:How high did you go on sandpaper. Work in stages up to 1200 grit and it should get pretty glassy. Woulda just left the bump though

+1 to this. Then finish it off with some 0000 steel wool. Smooth baby!

amentowasso wrote:How high did you go on sandpaper. Work in stages up to 1200 grit and it should get pretty glassy. Woulda just left the bump though

Lowes only had up to 600 grit. I need some sort of hand-held sander...holding these square pieces in my hand and trying to sand is kinda difficult...especially when it's 105 outside and you have sweat pouring down your face!

Hey, really cool idea with the carbon fiber wrap. I might give that blue a try.

Here is a pic of what it looks like after using 600 grid sandpaper. It FEELS very smooth to the touch, but obviously very hazy/streaky.

I guess I will go find some 1000 grid and see what happens. I wish I had a motorized tool to sand with though. Maybe some sort of high speed buffer would heat it up/smooth the surface layer.

I think if you buff it you'll just end up making it look worst. The melting point temp is too low on the grade of plastic. At this point, I'd pant it or wrap it.

Wrap it in something shiny! Help reflect some heat.

Surprisingly, I got my sandpaper from Harbor Freight. There is a pack you can get for $6 that goes up to 2000 grit...

And I do all my sanding in the kitchen sink... +1 for living in an apartment

Hummm... I was wondering if a heat gun will work on that. lightly passing it over and melting it a bit? just a thought.

You could always buy a new one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2010-MUSTANG-SVT-RESONATOR-ELIMINATOR-KIT-M-9B659-MSVT-/220720335794?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3363f50bb2

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/2007_2012_Shelby_GT_500_Resonator_Delete_Kit_p/m-9b659-msvt.htm

http://www.lethalperformance.com/2010-shelby-gt500-induction-induction-kits-ford-racing-c-5711_5771_5772_5774/ford-racing-air-inlet-resonator-eliminator-p-33774

Hopefully that is the part you are talking about. If you want stock look, only way you will get it back is to buy a new one. But painting or wrapping would be a cool idea also, maybe color match to your car?

I wouldn't buy a new one, this one IS brand new...it's just that is had these 3 large "moulding" pour holes left over from when they made it....right on top. So I sanded them off. Whos to say I don't get the exact same thing again....not gonna chance it.

I"m thinking I will simply paint it with heat resistant paint. It's already smoothed from the 600 grit sand paper, so I think it will look great. Now to find some good paint that won't get messed up in the high heat.

Just finished putting other interior parts on. Map light buttons, door lock bezels, seat levers, mirror adjustment knob (was a bit tricky and not on 100% straight). Getting door pins in mail, along with seat adjust switches, recliner levers, headlight knob, door vent trim, coat hooks. I'll take a pic when it's all done!

Good luck Ryan! Hope it turns out for you sir

paint it.

Hope it turns out well. May look in to like a wax polish or something. Similar to shoe polish but something that will dry. My fear is that unless you use a urethane based rubber paint, the heat from the engine along with the force of incoming air would cause the paint to crack, would would look worse than what you have there.

I painted it. Used Rustoleum black semi-gloss rated at 1200 degrees for BBQ grills. Looks great! Case dismissed!

Congrats! Can't wait to see the new bling too!

Id check out this - http://www.smokedtaillightstint.com/professional-finish-tutorial.php

When they use the sandpaper it turns out like how yours is, where its smooth but not glossy. Then they used some rubbing compound and some plast-x. Id just try the plast-x then if that doesn't work paint it.

xXBIGxBAREXx wrote:Id check out this - http://www.smokedtaillightstint.com/professional-finish-tutorial.php

When they use the sandpaper it turns out like how yours is, where its smooth but not glossy. Then they used some rubbing compound and some plast-x. Id just try the plast-x then if that doesn't work paint it.

Read 2 posts above yours, he already painted it

Pics or it didn't happen.

Looks decent. I noticed a few spots that were not perfectly smooth after I painted it, but it's not worth a redo at this point. I am satisfied.

Looks good!

Looks nice. Congrats!

It does look a lot better... although I kinda liked the velvet look after the sanding job... heh.

Needs more cylinders

Oh oh bimmer bully alert! Lol

lol after all the grief I took for my 6 cyl lol these are just jokes

Oh I know George... I get all the rag now...